Part 12
IDENTITY
Autumn/ Winter '26

This collection began when Rory William Docherty travelled to the Scottish Outer Hebridean Isle of Lewis and Harris. For this New Zealand designer who was British-born with Scottish roots, the homeland of Harris Tweed spurred a gentle exploration into notions of people, place and provenance.

The distinctive woven cloth that’s made locally, under protected guidelines, has a global reputation for quality, utility and beauty. A respect for heritage and the way things are made, echoes Docherty’s focus on the importance of craft, creators and localising the skill set around each product type. For IDENTITY, Docherty has collaborated with local quilters who pad his printed silk velvet with locally sourced wool; glass blowers for unique handblown glass beads; a collective of hand-knitters in India.

Acknowledging the distinctive chevron pattern woven in Harris Tweed, Docherty works the original cloth into cocoon-like coats. His own painted interpretation of the herringbone design is magnified, printed, and quilted across the soft lapels and pointed sleeve heads of a voluminous silk velvet wrap coat. Smaller scale, the prints shimmer across fluid silk blouses. The inverted zig-zag is worked into sweaters, that can be buttoned up or down, worn long or short. It’s sewn as panels in a black watch tartan dress. Finding crosscultural connections, in the hands of partner Jordan Draffin, a designer and maker of Māori (Ngāpuhi, Te Rarawa, Ngāti Whātua, Tainui) and Scottish (Clan of Donald) descent, the chevrons that echo the traditional tukutuku panels of his heritage become two pieces of wearable sculpture. Ebonized woods, including matai heartwood, a species of tree endemic to Aotearoa New Zealand, glass beads, semi- precious stones, leather and silver give fringing a new weight and translucency; mirroring other beaded elements throughout the collection made by Draffin.

Rough with smooth, modern with heritage, comfort with grandeur. With no need to compartmentalise, and a desire for simplicity that eliminates unnecessary boundaries, soft flannels go with papery shot taffeta, decadent silk velvets are put with practical tweeds. The emphasis is on easy to wear shapes that feel almost playful.

Docherty’s signature versatility is scattered throughout. See the hooded shapes that can be pulled snugly over the head, or left to form scarves, cowls or funnel necks on woven wool tunics, pinstripe shirting and crushed velvet snoods. A dramatic Harris Tweed aviator jacket flips up, past the back of the head, to softly encapsulate in fleecy grey sheepskin.

A direct reflection of the ruggedly beautiful Outer Hebrides, the colour palette intersperses the rich brown and pale ochre of peat moorland with vibrant shades of purple heather, the grey-blue Lewisian Gneiss rocky outcrops with white sandy beaches and iridescent green dancing sea foam. Each shade is distinct when apart but, brought together, forms a richer story.